Adventures in drafting

Sorry for the delay in updates. I caught the sniffles, but am better now :)

So as mentioned in a previous post, I took Friday (20th August) off to attend a drafting/sewing class at Stitch & Craft Corner (Eastpoint Mall, Simei). It was FUN and I'm going back for more lessons.
The first thing I learnt was how to take proper measurements, a vital first step, said the teacher, and of course that makes perfect sense. Having used paper patterns all my sewing life, it was an eye-opener for me to learn about the many vital measurement points.

In addition to the usual bust, waist & hips, we also measured things such as shoulder, bust length (distance from shoulder to bust), hip length (distance from waist to fullest part of hip), front waist length, back waist length (my measurements for front waist and back waist are dramatically different, but for some people, it's the same), etc.

First, we measured the mannequin in the shop and then, I attempted to take some of my own measurements and that of the teacher's (in the pic below, the teacher is in the red top; wonderful Ati is the person in dark blue):After the measurements were taken, we began drafting a basic bodice and skirt. The drafting was first done in a sketchbook, using itty bitty rulers.

The drawings look mighty complicated, don't they!At first, it was a bit overwhelming, but the teacher was really patient and explained things logically ... eg. add xx inches to the waist measurement and then take xx off for the darts.

Then, after walking me through the first draft, she made me draft the basic bodice and basic skirt by myself in the book.

Then it was time to do the "proper" drafts on paper and cut out the fashion fabrics. First up, was the skirt. And I was so engrossed in the process that I forgot to take pics, sorry! But here's a pic of the bodice back and all the red lines are the teacher's corrections.
The interesting thing (to me) about drafting is that you don't add seam allowances to the draft. That is done directly on the fashion fabric before cutting it out. So you place the paper on the fabric, mark out the cutting lines (and there are different seam allowances for different parts of the garment) and then cut out the pieces. In the pic above, the "outline" is where I cut.

Then, after cutting out the pieces, you mark the sewing lines/seam lines. That makes for rather accurate sewing, I think! And it makes fitting easier too, in my opinion. In the pic below, you can see the skirt yoke cut out and the tracing wheel and carbon paper I'll use for tracing out the seam lines. Thank goodness for marking the seamlines because as you can see, I didn't do a good job cutting. Hahahhaha!

Then came the sewing. I've completed the skirt (simple yoked a-line with invisible zip in the centre back) and am currently working on the simple top.

Stay tuned as the adventure continues!!